The tactic worked and led to a partnership between Cross Colours founder Carl Jones, which helped put Kani on the map. Returning to the drawing board, Kani had the unconventional idea of paying a friend to hold up a sign with the brand’s logo during a taping of The Today Show to increase sales. Born in Costa Rica and raised in the East New York section of Brooklyn, Kani got his start selling clothes in his neighborhood before venturing to Los Angeles to open a clothing store on Crenshaw, which proved to be unsuccessful. One of the first Black designers of the hip hop era to breakout with their own clothing line was Karl Kani, whose signature baggy style of jeans served as the template for street-wear. Despite never becoming a full-on brand, The Shirt Kings are remembered as originators in the street-wear sector and their influence can be traced to numerous fashion designers of today. Servicing the biggest rap artists and neighborhood superstars of the ’80s and early ’90s, The Shirt Kings – who were located in a shopping mall dubbed the Coliseum – exploded in popularity, resulting in the trio becoming celebrities themselves. Launching their business in 1986, The Shirt Kings turned heads by airbrushing various cartoon characters and depicting them in a light that reflected the realism of the streets. Based out of Queens, New York, The Shirt Kings was headed by a trio of designers, Edwin “Phade” Sacasa, Rafael “Kasheme” Avery, and Clyde “Nike” Harewood, who decided to combine their talents after meeting one another at Manhattan High School of Art & Design.
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An influential figure in fashion and hip hop, calls for Dan to get his just due resulted in Gucci partnering up with him for a menswear line in 2017.ĭuring the late ’80s, no wardrobe was complete without a custom design from The Shirt Kings, who helped document the effect that hip hop and the crack epidemic on New York City through their clothing. However, after various fashion houses took legal action against Dan, his boutique was closed in 1992, marking the end of an era.
That street cred would lead to an array of musicians and athletes to seek out his services, including Mike Tyson, LL Cool J, Eric B & Rakim, KRS-One, The Fat Boys, and Bobby Brown. Opening his flagship store, Dapper Dan’s Boutique, in 1982, Dan would quickly become the go-to tailor for New York City’s biggest hustlers and neighborhood superstars, most notably Alberto “Alpo” Martinez.
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Taking matters into his own hands, Dan taught himself how to design from scratch, using bootleg fabric from luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and MCM. Hailing from Harlem, New York, Dapper Dan took up the garment trade in the ’70s, but faced discrimination from various companies who refused to do business with the aspiring clothier. While his style epitomizes the aesthetic of the early hip-hop scene, it’s also remained unwaveringly cool in the thirty-some years since, and I have some theories as to why.When listing the pioneers of high-end street-wear and hip hop fashion, Dapper Dan’s name is at the top of the list. Without a doubt, LL Cool J should be considered one of the most influential fashion icons of both the early hip-hop and streetwear movements. And from his Kangol bucket hats and oversized dookie chains, his adventurous accessorizing and avant-garde flair somehow always came across as effortless. The heavy influence of B-Boy culture is clearly evident in his sleek tracksuits and understated kicks. And in my tireless research, I’ve determined that if there’s one person who embodies this je ne sais quoi of personal style, it’s LL Cool J during the late 80s and early 90s.Īs a loyal customer of Dapper Dan, LL Cool J was one of the first hip-hop artists to sport what would be classified today as luxury streetwear. Lately, I’ve been asking myself (and through much outfit stalking, attempting to answer) the question what makes someone’s personal style cool? Call it swag call it taste call it whatever you want, but there’s that certain something that you’ve either got or you don’t.
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